30/11/2009

27.11. - Midnight Express

Surreal feeling, during the Thursday-Friday night, the wind was good. 8-13 m/s.

The boat sailed on average speed of 9-10 knots. Somehow we managed to catch a route where wind had just developed, but waves not yet. All night long the boat felt like a locomotive, a racing locomotive. Spinnaker showing in the moonlight, wind swizzled and Monomotapa made more than 100 miles in one night. When back in bed, I felt strange. The boat did not go up and down, left and right. It was our Caribbean Midnight Express.

Pasi



Sailing in the darkness of the central Atlantic is truly different from the Baltic Sea. When the moon is not sharing its light, it is really dark.

The waves are long and high. You have to develop a sense for the waves, you have to feel them coming from behind, feel when they are catching the boat and react at the right time to catch them. At the same time, you have to follow the instruments to make sure you're not losing the correct course while you are playing catch up with the waves. It feels like playing a computer game, at high winds when the boat is running through the sea, you can almost imagine how it feels to steer a Volvo Ocean Race boat through the waves.

Today we caught our first fish, we have dragged a Rapala lure behind us every day, and today it paid off. We caught a small tuna of which Capo prepared a delicious sushi salad. We also learned a new trick, how to kill a fish. Andrea took a mouthful of rum and poured it into the fish’s mouth. Instant death, no pain. Amazing, I wonder if that would work for a shark....

Sailingwise a beautiful day, cloudless sky, moderate waves, 2-3 metres. The wind could have been a bit stronger. 7-10 m/s is not quite enough for Monomotapa. Nevertheless, we managed to clock 178 miles in our 5th 24-hour period.

Hannu

26.11. - Bonding with a flying fish

Crossing the Atlantic is a lonely man’s mission. It is not only that you don't see any other boats, but no one actually sees hardly any other living creatures. After 4 days and 4 nights, a flying fish makes one almost say, ”how do you do?”.

Dalai Lama says that engaging with communities will make a person happier.
Happiness will not be complete without connection to your community. It's collective happiness that makes societies work better.

Now after spending a few days on board, the flying fish ??? just like us, far away over the sea.

Crossing the Atlantic puts the dimensions of the globe into a new perspective. 3000 miles, nothing but water. All what you see during the 15-20 day period is blue, different spectres of blue.

In addition to the flying fish, we have occasionally seen a bird or two, amazing how they can live out on the see more than 100 miles from the nearest shore. We were also lucky and saw a whale, some 100-200 meter away from us, surfaced once and continued it's journey. One more flock of tuna just 20-50 meters from our boat. They were probably hunting and the smaller tuna got scared by the bigger brothers and sisters. The smaller ones escaped, they jumped from the sea.

It is Thursday. We have now made some 25% of the journey, today’s leg being 189 miles. Weather continues to be perfect, sun shines and winds had 8-15 m/s from north-east.

This is being a beautiful and incredibly wonderful experience with not much of sleep. One of the finesse of the thing is that you cannot do very much on the board, and you cannot leave the sea. Most likely the coming 2000 miles will be the same. Luckily the thing is break, which is happy for me.

Pasi

28/11/2009

25.11. - All In

High amount of traffic during the night, we saw at least 4-5 other yachts, all heading south, not along the shortest route that they originally selected... And a huge oil tanker that passed us at closer than 1 nautical mile. Success in ARC is in great way dependent on the success of your strategy. Will you head far south to the longer route and hope that with steady and reliable wind it will pay off? Or will you take the shortest route, more north, and risk encountering a low pressure front, which means very unstable winds from dead calm sea to close to storm wind speed at 15-25 metres/second and you can't get them against you.

We were all-in, the shortest route. Il Capitano spends a lot of time at the chart table navigating and investigating weather reports. This is his fourth crossing, and he wants to win. He did that last time. Wind is forecasted to continue as they are for the foreseeable future, that is, 3-4 days so our strategy would seem to pay off at this stage. From 200 boats 40 has selected the same tactic, the rest chose south.

Night was quite unexciting sailing with winds from 7-10 m/s flying the butterfly.
Not surprisingly in the break of the day, everyone was eager to get the spinnaker up again. With a bit more wind than yesterday and perhaps too much self-confidence, it took a couple up and down exercises to get the spinnaker flying. We gained 2 knots of speed. With this turbo-booster we manage to speed up and clock 185 nautical miles during the 3rd 24 hours. It was in all aspects close to our first sailing day, winds at from 6-15 m/s from straight behind, boat speed steadily at 9-11 knots. When we got a message that we were leading our own class race, it gave us an ego boost to trim the sails. After such a perfect sailing day, it was a pity to take down the spinnaker and set the butterfly set-up for the night. However, it is important to remember that this is a long-haul race. To succeed one has to be significantly consistent and consistently significant.

Today’s yachts resemble cars in at least one point - problems with electronics. Our communication laptop has been dead for 2 days now. Olli has been nominated as the IT guru of the team and he has spent hours and hours setting up the reserve PC, but without success.

I called home and heard that our position in the ARC Fleet Viewer had shown that we had turned back. Combined with our communication problem, this had caused concerns among families at home, however I’m happy to say that everything is great on the boat and we are totally enjoying the ride.

Hannu

24.11. - Olli in Flames

I woke up at 9:55 PM to Olli's loud monologue. ”This is fantastic. This is one of the most unbelievable experiences, an absolute all time high sailing experience. High and long waves, good wind, moonlight and lane to follow.”

Karri and myself took over the shift. The night was slightly warmer, the wind blew south and it turned a bit darker as soon as the moon disappeared around midnight. The 4-hour shift might be longer this time?

”This is absolutely my very best sailing experience, I can drive another hour!” Olli shouted when I woke up for the morning shift, which started with a steady breakfast at 6 AM. I thought of a groundhog day….?

Karri and I lined up and took over the morning shift. We had difficulties to remember what day it was, maybe Tuesday, we said with a smile. Just when we had one of the most interesting spinnaker operations ongoing, we saw a large flock of tuna about 50 metres from our boat, they had probably fun. Our sail operation did not have much of success, but however we were able to avoid major damages.

Our crew is divided into two teams; Hannu, Olli, Janne and Iiro are the A-team, and Hannu is the watch of this team. The B-team is Andrea, Francesco, Pasi and Karri, with Francesco as the watch. Alberto is ”il Capitano” and watching everyone. We are running five watches throughout the day, of which two last six hours and three last four hours. The daylight watches are from 6 AM to noon and from noon to 6 PM. The night watches are 6 PM to 10 PM, from 10 PM to 2 AM and from 2 AM to 6 AM.

The breakfast is served at 6 AM, lunch at noon and dinner at 6 PM.

So far the Italians have taken very good care of us, cultural and delicious food.

Pasi

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The second 24-hour drove us only 175 nautical miles. With slight frustration to the result and slowing speed between 6 and 8 knots, we decided to suggest that the Finnish team would hoist the spinnaker. With some seriousness in his voice, ”il Capitano” replied that this will put a lot of responsibility to the team, since the spinnaker is brand new, literally they were huge.

After the unsuccessful Italian-Finnish spinnaker operation resulting in a broken sail, I tried to sound as confident as possible, when replying ”No problem”.

We opted for going through the procedures several times without touching the spinnaker at all. When we finally did the process, the result was perfect. The spinnaker was beautifully up and we gained another 1.5 knots in our speed.

The spirits were at their top when we passed a 14-feet catamaran also running on a spinnaker.

We used this set-up until the dark came, but decided to change it to a butterfly set-up, using the Genoa supported by the boom.

Hannu

23.11.

Just to correct the all time high speed so far, our RayMarine speedometer clocked 13 knots yesterday but the max speed according to the GPS was 14.9 knots. Bellissimo.

And during the first 24 hours we collected 198 nautical miles, not bad. I must say I really love this Swan 46.

I had my first night shift on Saturday from 6 pm to 10 pm and the next one after 4 hours from 2 am to 6 am. During my first one the moon was offering us a nice shade of light and thousands of stars were blinking in the black sky. I have said many times to my wife Paula that we should go outside with the sleeping bags and just lay down and stare at the sky.

Sailing at the speed of 9-10 knots and watching the stars will do as well.

It was a bit chilly even though I was wearing my Musto Gore-gear, but at the rear it’s pretty warm as you try to keep up the waves you can't see.

The second shift was tougher than the first one since the moon had gone away and the wind was peaking up. The wind indicator clocked 17 metres/second at around 4:30 AM after which we decided to take the first reef on the main sail. I've never seen anyone reefing the main without changing the course towards the wind but Francesco and Andrea did it even though there was enormous pressure off the very strong tail wind.

There were a few quite big waves but nothing that you should be scared of. We all had the state-of-the art spin lock vests, and we use harnesses all the time. There is even a blinking light in the spin lock vests which you should turn on when needed. Last night I didn't need it but when I was coming up for the first night watch, Hannu was saying: ”Hey, look guys, there is a walking Christmas tree on board.” The bloody light was blinking in my vest and I couldn't turn it off. Now the light is locked and ready to use. It is now 10 o'clock in the morning and I know that I should try to sleep. I'm sure I’m getting used to this but still I’m not exited.

Now I’m gonna go up on the board and see how the boys are handling the boat. The weather is half cloudy, temperature very pleasant and the wind is 20 knots from the tail.

Greetings from Karri

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After 24 hours the fleet of over 200 yachts has spread across the sea between the Canary Islands and Capo Verde. We only saw one other boat during the whole day. The only other things we saw in the sea was seabirds and a plastic jerry floating on the waves, and our first tuna. Sailing goes very smoothly, lying with Genoa with the boom, which is called butterfly. Average speed around 7-9 knots.

Greetings, Hannu

25/11/2009

25.11.2009 at 22:45 GMT+2

Greetings by phone from Monomotapa:

Great sailing, favorable winds, and Monomotapa is ahead of most other boats, heading steadily towards St Lucia.

Mail is not working properly however, and apparently there is a mistake in the Fleet Viewer log at the ARC 2009 site regarding our position.

But we're fine, "our" Swan is a magnificent sailer, food is still good and spirit high. We hope to share more stories with you, as soon as we find a solution to the mail problem.

Regards to everybody back home!

23/11/2009

22.11.2009

Breakfast for winners

I eat my dinner, I take no drinks and we all go to sleep. That policy for the last night in Las Palmas worked fine until the end of main course. Great dinner with Alberto, Paco and Andrea. Good wine, good laughs. Olli boosted energy to many of us with the post-dinner beers, and all of the sudden it was 3.30 before we hit the beds.

Beautiful morning to start an adventure. Low wind. Brass band, dancing and plenty of crowds giving us their farewells. We were all smiling onboard of the Monomotapa when we left the harbour.

2674 miles to go.

- Pasi

More than 200 boats at the start-line is a great experience. For a round-the-cans racer the start did not create too much adrenaline but the voyage ahead certainly enticed more than enough excitement.

- Hannu

After the start the wind was gradually peaking up to 20-25 knots (10-12,5 m/s) and Monomotapa starts to give us good rides. First we ride with the spinnaker but due to the tail wind and our course we decided to put genoa with the spinnaker boom. Not a bad decision for the first night.

The waves were also gradually growing and our boys were helming the boat with a big smile. First day’s record is 13 knots!

- Karri

21/11/2009

21.11.

Saturday morning and it was early wake up for the breakfast. We are staying at the Santa Catalina which we found to be an excellent hotel – actually much better than I thought looking the price of 100 euros a night. Weather looks fun and sunny. Forecast for the next few days is good.

Hannu went to ARC captains briefing with Alberto – Sunday start is expected to have great sailing conditions. North - North East winds at 15 knots and up to 25 knots on Monday. This should get our Swan to fly – well...almost. Our captain Alberto is notorious of driving the boat to its limits – on their last voyage 2 years ago Monomotapa lost 3 spinnakers. Perhaps that is why they scored 2nd overall and won their class. Another competitive thing: Monomotapa is known for the best food. When not sailing, Alberto manages his restaurant in Sienna and all the crews so far have gained weight on their voyages with him – not lost :).

I feel much better now after yesterdays de-hydration headache. We are all looking forward on this journey.

- Olli

20.11.

Team-up

Group together. Almost. Unfortunately Petteri had to take a tough decision and skip the journey due to sickness in family. Hannu’s perfect organizing skills were tested, but replacement was confirmed in minutes, and Iiro will be joining us on Saturday.

Alberto’s briefing onboard was to-the-point “no bullshit” training of all essential safety measures such as procedures on Man Over Board, fire, hitting a container…. In case all must leave the boat, we practiced swimming in a crocodile position. Not funny. “If you fall during the day, 99% chances. If in the night … not good”, Alberto said, and we all decided to use the lifelines at all times.

“Alberto is the most genuine fine man, good skipper and a mad sailor”, explained Julian who has 13 years of experience in ARC sailing. We were already very proud of Alberto.

Unfortunately, we learnt how essential it is to drink water. Olli suffered de-hydration and had to skip the dinner. He will be back.

It was indeed great to be together, ventilate about expectations, fears and hopes. Great team.

-Pasi

19.11.

Tutto bene.

It was great to meet Alberto (captain), Paco (co-skipper) and their friends. Warm, genuine, big-hearted Italians. They are going to make this journey a great pleasure. All in Italian. Tutto bene.

The boat is a beauty. Alberto has taken care of his Swan 46 with care and pride, and it is in perfect condition.

The first pasta onboard was delicious and was served with plenty of wine. And talk. Clearly, there will be no compromises in meals.

There will be five daily shifts, two groups. And most importantly: breakfast at 6, lunch at 12 and dinner at 18.

Bon appetito.

-Pasi

18.11.

Gone sailing

Givrins. Wake up at 5. My bed felt much too comfortable, and my stomach knew this was not going to be just another travel. Gone sailing.

There was no sign of the heavy rains that had washed Ls Palmas the day before. Warm, sunny and sea looked attracting.

ARC office was busy. Full of men, women, different nationalities – all radiate excitement and look real sailors.

ARC organizes a series of preparatory seminars for the crews. Today, the seminar presentation was on “First aid and health on ocean sailing“. Serious stuff. This is not going to be a tourist trip, I felt while listening to the colourful presentation of the doctor who described the usual emergencies and went through step-by-step processes on breathing, bleeding, bones and burns.

Set of perfect advices included one-liners such as “Get the pump going”, “bleeding is not bad unless the blood flies over you”, “raise it, chill it, strap it”. Main conclusions were to drink min 2 litres of water/day and never piss over the reeling. And don’t go to Cape Verde.

Rest of the day was spent on preparatory tasks, and wound up (or down) for sailing.

Gone sailing.

-Pasi

The Crew


The dudes shaking off their 40-year crisis. The friends that did not hesitate.

Janne
- Sailing across the Atlantic is a perfect way to start my sabbatical leave. Celebrating my 40th anniversary in the middle of the ocean will definitely be something to remember. I am expecting hard racing and enjoyable moments with good friends and our great Italian hosts.
- All my love to my wife Annu, my 4 years old son Launo and 2 years old daughter Aava, who are hoping to see me back home for the Christmas! I will do my best to stay on board.

Karri
- After 8 years of summer sailing in the Finnish archipelago I still feel I’m a rookie in sailing and I’m humble to learn more. My role in the boat has always been watching tell tails and continuous tuning of sails. I’m a true Italy lover - especially Italian food and wine.

Olli
- Been sailing since the age of 9 - mainly in the Baltic sea and Finnish archipelago but recently wonderful trips in the Swedish west coast with the s/y Invisible – beautiful big swan – and in the Croatia’s coast with soul mates Pasi and Roope.

- Hannu called me 1,5 years ago and asked if I wanted to join this trip and I answered yes in 30 seconds. I’m following many entrepreneurs who have wanted to challenge themselves with new projects –this is mine for next weeks.

- I would love to learn more about sailing especially everything on choosing route through different weather and high and low pressures – navigare necesse est

Pasi
- Sailing across the Atlantic is a perfect way of to take break from sustainability business - environmental governance and policy-making on climate change. Looking forward to this period – first time in 20 years – to be without any access to mobile phones and emails, and just focus on sails, survival and soul.

- Already longing back to family, but at the same time, cannot wait for leaving the harbor of Las Palmas and feel the ultimate swing of waves. Gone sailing.

Iiro (as described by Hannu)
- At 37 the youngster of the crew. The Chinese would call him the man of miraculous decisions and magnificent thoughts. I am confident that he will change the minds and lives of the crew members during these weeks – or at least the diets. Not a sailing guru but the real guru.

And our Italian fellows

Alberto
- Il capitano and the owner of Momomotapa, a beautifully maintained Swan 46, a combination Italian genuineness and stoical confidence and firmness.

Paco and Andrea
- The true Italians, relaxed, friendly and fun.

The Story

It hit me 1,5 years ago that I will be turning 40 soon. Faithful to my image as “the man with the plan” I started thinking how to celebrate the occasion. After talking with some friends who had passed the milestone and listening to what they had done (from mountain climbing to heli-sking in Siberia) I agreed that it is time to start realizing your dreams. Something with a touch of excitement, extreme and exclusivity. For a sailor it did not take long to decide what it would be: crossing the Atlantic. The first leg in testing what every sailor keeps secretly thinking: how would it be to live in a boat, to sail the oceans of the world…

After getting a blessing for the idea from my dear wife Josefin who as a keen sailor herself celebrated the idea (that some wives quite understandably would have clearly stated as a ground for divorce), I contacted a group of my best friends. Needless to say they were ready to go.

Now after 1,5 years of waiting we are ready to go. Anticipating an exciting passage and eagerly waiting to meet my dearest, Josefin, Luna and Lucas in St. Lucia.

Hannu